January 21, 2016
Recently I watched a movie entitled E11 which features one of the top climbers in Britain, Dave Macleod, establishing and climbing a route called Rhapsody at Dumbarton Rock in Glasgow. The movie can be purchased at the online adventure company SteepEdge and was produced by Hot Aches Productions in 2006 . Here’s a short description of the film:-
One of the best all-round climbers in the world seeks to take traditional rock climbing to the next level of difficulty and inevitably danger. The steep and intimidating rock face protecting the seaward flanks of the historic Dumbarton Castle in Scotland is the scene of Dave MacLeod’s very personal battle.
From award winning filmmaker Paul Diffley, E11 reveals the dedication, frustrations and shear physical and mental effort that goes into MacLeod’s climbing. We see him take a series of terrifying, massive, gut wrenching falls. Relationships become strained as he struggles to cope with the difficulty and seriousness of the endeavour. Doggedly, even obsessively, he keeps returning to his ‘ultimate’ project.
For those not familiar with the grading system used for climbs in Britain, E11 is the equivalent to French 8c+ or US 5.14d (note there are no bolts and 22-metre/70-foot fall potential)
E11 was shortlisted for best film at the Edinburgh Mountain Film Festival. It was also a finalist in the prestigious Banff Mountain Film Festival (November 2006).
The clip below gives you an idea of the height of the rock and shows some of the falls taken during the climb
Towards the end of the movie there’s also some additional footage of Dave working on a boulder problem called Pressure – graded font 8b or V13.· Email this article · Comments (1) · Permalink · Categories: Climbing, Traditional